The Extraordinary Journey From Gem to High Jewelry
From stones to masterpieces: inside the process that marries artistry and engineering.
If one universal truth exists, it’s that we all have to start somewhere. But it’s how the journey progresses that ultimately sets the tone for reputation. This applies to individuals, businesses and even precious gems.
When Laurence Graff established his namesake jewelry company in 1960, he had already paid his dues as an apprentice and assistant to other jewelers. At the time, Graff understood excess does not always equal luxury. One hundred lackluster diamonds can’t compare to the fundamental beauty of a single exquisite gem. That truth became the cornerstone of the Graff brand.
“Our house has a history that spans over 60 years, driven by the pursuit of craft, an obsession with detail and a devotion to beauty,” says Anne-Eva Geffroy, design director at Graff.
The Graff family still presides over the cutting and polishing process to achieve the level of precision for which the high jewelry house is known. It requires a truly expert eye to select the most exquisite stones in the world. “The Graff family is responsible for selecting each of our diamonds to ensure only the most magnificent and charismatic stones feature in our jewelry creations,” Geffroy adds.
As custodian of the world’s finest diamonds and gems, Geffroy and Sherry say the Graff team feels a sense of responsibility to feature these stones in the best possible light. The results are high jewelry pieces with a distinctly Graff aesthetic. “I call our designs the epitome of contemporary classicism,” Geffroy says. “The emphasis of each piece has been—and will always be—on the stones themselves. They are the centerpiece and guide to our creative process and give our high jewelry the perfect balance, proportion and sensuous feminine power.”
Despite spending her career around exquisite gems, Geffroy says her heart skipped a beat when she first laid eyes on this particular sapphire. A jewel of that size is rarely seen, even in Geffroy’s line of work. It presented a unique and exciting challenge for both the design atelier and the workshop.
“A design of perfect balance and proportion was required that would lead the eye toward this exceptional center stone,” she says. “The depth of the sapphire also had to be considered and counterbalanced, which inspired the elegant diamond surround.”
When Graff acquires diamonds or other precious gemstones, the atelier analyzes them from every angle and sometimes groups them into families.
“We experiment with their color, size, cut and the possibilities of volume that each grouping might bring into play,” Geffroy says. “It forms a crucial part of our creative process and guides our visual journey, with each composition seeking to draw the eye along a seamless path of light.”
In many cases, the team is designing a piece of jewelry around the stone itself. Geffroy points to a sapphire and diamond necklace from the Graffabulous campaign.
“Graffabulous is an ode to the majesty of natural diamonds and gemstones,” she says. ”All of our sapphire jewels are bestowed with a refined elegance, sleek lines and an all-important focus on the stones themselves. In the case of the sapphire and diamond necklace, it’s a magnificent, unheated 109-carat cushion-cut gem, unique in both quality and size.”
In order to bring a piece like the sapphire and diamond necklace to life, a team of artisans and goldsmiths meet to discuss the technical aspects of a design. That’s where Sam Sherry, general manager of the workshop at Graff, and his team come into play.
“Initially, all of the diamonds and gemstones to be incorporated into the finished jewel are carefully appraised,” Sherry says. “Only then can work commence on the open-work mounts. In addition to holding a diamond securely in place, they must never compromise the stone they cradle and allow light to travel through the jewel.”
EMBRACING THE EXQUISITE
Anne-Eva Geffroy, design director, Graff
“Our house has a history that spans over 60 years, driven by the pursuit of craft, an obsession with detail and a devotion to beauty.”
FOLLOWING THE STONES
Each piece is crafted from precious metal, and entirely bespoke. The time-consuming process of hand-soldering is employed to give Graff jewelry mounts flexibility and fluidity.
This is exceptionally important when working with the caliber of stones acquired by Graff—stones like the 109-carat, cushion-cut, unheated Sri Lankan sapphire.
Wall Street Journal Custom Content is a unit of The Wall Street Journal advertising department. The Wall Street Journal news organization was not involved in the creation of this content.
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